Friday, November 2, 2007

Heading to Kyoto (11/1)


So we push off early in the morning on Nov 1 towards Kyoto. We take a bullet train called Hikari. Each train has it's own name. We speed along the countryside and towns for 2 1/2 hours. The countryside view : 1) small plots of land growing rice, vegetables of some sort, and maybe tea; 2) densely populated little cities with high rises; 3) manufacturing plants; and 4) a few glimpses of mountains, rivers, and the ocean.

It's pretty gloomy with low hanging gray cloud cover and hints of rain. And it's also somewhat humid. It's odd to experience cool weather and humidity at the same time but that's how it is most days. Makes it confusing to know what to wear so I wear long sleeves and carry around a sweater, rain jacket, and short sleeved shirt in the day pack just in case.

First thing on the Kyoto tour is a visit to Nijo Castle and Ninomaru Palace inside the Castle. The "tour" has been worked out primarily by Dennis in close consultations with Chie. Dennis has done an excellent job of researching the right spots to go to, on which days, and has computer print outs of everything for reference!


The Castle is nothing like the castles I've seen in Europe. There is a moat and large stone walls but the building materials are different and there's much more open spaces instead the castle walls. The Palace is a series of large rooms that the shogun would have used to see visitors, etc. Notable -are the beautiful gold paintings upon paper on top of wood screens. A huge wall would have several screens that make up the whole picture. They're done by the Kano School which I don't know much about but it's beautiful work. Lots of herons, flowers, trees, hawks, tigers, etc. The floors are famous because they are constructed by a technique that makes noise when someone walks across them -- designed so unwanted visitors would be heard. They're called Nightingale floors. And the grounds are beautiful too -- rock and water gardens with perfectly sculptured trees.

Next stop : Yasaka Shrine. I threw $ into the box, rang the hanging bell, clapped my hands 3 times, and prayed. I'm not really sure if that's the right order or not though. I need to observe others more to figure it out correctly.






We strolled up to Maruyama Park with it's beautiful Japanese maples of different varieties around the pond. The park is known for it's cherry blossoms in the Spring. I was so surprised to see a woman walking a yellow lab that I went up and asked if I could pet the dog, which I did. Sigh -- I miss Cody. I think God must have sent this dog through the park to help me have a Cody fix :)

But the best stop for the day was an accident -- not on the tour schedule -- Kodaiji Temple. It was built by Hideyoshi or his wife , Nene (conflicting information on this). It is just beautiful, peaceful, and serene. And this temple is part of a special fall celebration where certain temples are open to the public in the evening with lights to display the grounds.

I walk sock-footed (you take off your shoes inside every temple) through the main temple building -- it primarily large rooms with tatami mats, some paintings, no furniture. It's not the actual temple building that I enjoy, but the grounds which are beautifully designed and meticulously maintained. It's after dark (it's getting dark by 5 pm) so the grounds are lit up highlighting the maples tree leaves and the roof tops. There is a large pond with perfectly designed trees around it as well as building with a blue tiled bowed roof and a covered bridge to the next building. The next building up the hill is lit up to show off the gold hinges under the rooftop. I walk up the hillside of stone steps to see these buildings. More stone stairs to the next level and there are 2 small meditation structures.


Then I walk back down another path through a beautifully lit bamboo forest. The bamboo trees are so tall and close to each other and so green. When I knock on the tree trunk, there's a hollow sound.

Maybe it's the night time viewing or the cool air with the humidity or the design of the gardens with all their curves and delicate features but it's such a serene place. Or maybe it's just the temple's energy -- it's wonderful!

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Gee Kathleen,,,you are more informative then Dennis. Wear in layers as you do in a hike.

Just know that Nijo Castle is built for the Shogun visiting Kyoto. Its supposed to impressed the imperial court with Tokugawa's power and grace at the same time. Combination of a military fortress and courtly palace make this an unique place.

Kodaiji Temple is built by Nene, Hideyoshi's wife although they have been seperated for quite a long time. Although his wife, Nene was no real friend to the Toyotomi family that centered around Hideyoshi's conubine, Chacha and their son. She gave moral support to Tokugawa Ieyasu.

Poor Codybear...

Remember...more money helps when praying...

Glad to know you are having a good time so far.