Hiroshima is a big city but not as big at Kyoto and certainly not as big at the 12 million people who live in Tokyo. It's known as the City of Peace. And it's modern since it was rebuilt in the late 1940's/early 1950's. It's nestled in between hills and the ocean but the buildings are not very attractive -- boxy looking, high rises.
Today is our day to experience all types of transportation -- bullet train to get to the city, trolley to get from the station to the Peace Park, taxi to go to the port, ferry to go to Miyajima to Island, cable car up to Mt Misen, and JR train back to the hotel. Happy say that I was okay on all modes of transportation -- no motion sickness problems :)
Our first stop is the Peace Park. We visit the Genbaku Dome (A Bomb dome). It is one of the few surviving buildings after the A bomb was dropped on 8/6/45 because it was at ground zero. It's now the remnants of a brick and cement building. Originally built in 1915 by a Czech architect, it was a building for commercial trade.
Also in the park -- Children's Peace Memorial, eternal peace flame, and cenograph (containing the names of the A-bomb victims), and the Museum for Peace.
The Museum was very interesting - history of Hiroshima before the Sino-Japanese war started in 1931 as well as information on the city during the war, the A bomb, why this city was selected, the experiences of survivors, rebuilding of the city, and a plea for peace in the world - end to nuclear weapons. It was a somber experience. But I found the experience different for me than it when I visited holocaust sites/museums. I was surprised to find that there was a part of me that was mad at the Japanese for starting the war -- for their imperialist mindset in the 1930's that made them want to conquer the world. But I was mad at Hitler and the Nazi's for starting the European portion of WWII when I was a Dachau too.
The informational pieces in the museum did mention Japan's part in the Chinese (Naking?) massacre which surprised us since Japan hasn't been the most forthcoming in apologizing for their atrocities in the war.
Hiroshima was selected as the first site for the bomb because it was a military base, didn't have air raid warnings like some other cities, and had clear skies on 8/6.
Donald and I commented on how tasteful the museum was, not having grisly photos, etc. of A bomb victims but we spoke too soon. The next floor had photographs of surivors, some body parts showing radiation affects that were extracted during autoposies, and then stories of victims. It was heartwretching to read about how kids would survive and suffer for a brief period of time before dying from the radiation poisoning. Certainly shows the horrors of war and how we should be advocating for peace everywhere. Too many innocent victims.
At the end of the day, I asked Chie if it was difficult for her to go through the museum and relive the war experience since she grew up in Japan. She said no, it was like seeing her youth. I think it probably validated what a difficult time it was for her and all the citizens of Japan who had to support the war effort.
She grew up on the western side of Japan in a small town. She said that when she was about 8 years old the government started making the school kids work instead of going to school. They would meet their teacher at the train station and be taken to their work site. For several years, she worked on local farms planting crops. She said this was okay because the farmers made sure that the kids got food. But most of the citizens didn't get enough food throughout the 14 years of the war.
As the war continued, all the middle school girls (10 to 12 year old) were recruited to be nurse assistants. So she was making bandages from used (and bloody) cloth/towels in the hospital. Boys were sent to learn how to fly planes and be komkaze pilots.
From 13 to 15 years old she had to work in a torpedo factory until the war was over. Chie suffered from bronchitis and was sickly because she was exposed to her father's tb so she wasn't able to stand up on her feet and work on the weapon assembly line. They had her work in the factory's office. She did this 7 days a week, every week.
The only celebrations during those years happened when there was a war victory. Chie said they were brainwashed into thinking that Americans were the devil. She said that everyone cried in sadness when the Emperor gave the radio announcement that they were surrending. She said she felt like she gave her youth to the war effort, and then to lose the war felt like it was all for nothing. She wanted her youth and education back and still does.
(update 11/26)
On the bullet train to Hiroshima:
On the bullet train to Hiroshima (passing countryside/ towns):
1 comment:
Kathleen, it won't be a true museum if they water down the effects of a nuclear blast...just the way the Holocaust would be meaningless if there is no photos of the camps and their victims.
In their minds..Japanese of 1930s were doing what we Americans did in the 19th century...expand, conquered and settled. Looking at from their point of view, it hard to condemn them for what they were doing since we were doing the same thing. You don't live in San Jose by accident, but by conquest of the forefathers before you.
Ironically, most Japanese today think of World War II as ancient history in most parts. War of their grandparents, many of them see no reason to apologize for something their grandparents did so long ago. Just the way most white Americans today see no reason to apologize for slavery.
Interesting perception so far, Kathleen, it has been very enjoyable reading your insights into your trip.
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