The ultimate Japanese spa experience (11/9)

We took at train to Hakone today. Its south from Tokyo and is known as a resort/spa area. So we were in for two day and nights of rest and relaxation before heading back to California.


The Hotel Kaiun has Japanese style rooms with tatami mats on the floors so you take off your shoes at the door and walk around the mats in socks or bare feet. The hotel room has an entry way, sink and toilet (Western style thankfully) in a separate area, and 2 tatami mat rooms with a view out to the river and mountains (which are across the road). In the main room this is a low table and 2 chairs without legs so that they just sit on top of the mats. In the other smaller room, there are two regular chairs. In the evening, hotel attendants come in and fold up the table to make room for the futon beds. They set up the futons and the bedding for bedtime and while we go to breakfast they will put the bedding away in the closets. The closets are sliding doors that also serve as the room’s walls. Simple and efficient.


The tatami mats have a scent similar to hay. It’s not bad, just noticeable. I asked for two futons to be placed on top of each other just to make it a little softer bed for myself.



When we came back to the hotel after a temple walk, it was time to experience the hot springs that are famous in this area. Lots of hotels have hot spring spas and there are day spas too. Chie went with me to explain the process. I was grateful since I wouldn’t have figured some of it out myself.


First you put on certain clothing to go up to the hot springs, called an Ofuro-Onsen. You wear undies and a yukata (cotton bathroom of sorts) and slippers. This hotel’s ofuro-onsen is on the 5th floor. There are separate men’s and women’s. You disrobe, leave your clothing in a basket, and go to the shower area. There are about 8 individual shower stalls but they are not like the type you’d find at a gym. You pick up a little bench and take it to a stall. You sit and use a hand-held shower to wash yourself. Then you go into the hot spring area which is a large steaming hot tub with a tiled bottom to soak. There’s a cold plunge area and a sauna too. I found the water temperature to be hot but not so hot that I couldn’t just walk into the water. But the best part is a separate, open air room that is on a covered deck with two individual hot tubs. I call them “teacups” because it’s like you’re sitting in a huge teacup soaking in hot water with a little fountain trickling in more water. I felt a little like I was in Alice and Wonderland with the huge teacup! I liked to soak in my “teacup”, look out towards the mountains and breath the fresh air.

I just had to get over being naked in front of my mother-in-law, as well as a lot of other more petite Japanese women! Turns out there wasn’t any one else in the spa when we were there so that was better. But my body type, particularly my bust size, doesn’t work well for Japanese yukata’s. I found that it just didn’t give me enough coverage – shows a little more cleavage than I’m comfortable with showing my in-laws! Luckily, Dennis brought a kimono with him so I am using that. It has more fabric to wrap around me!


After the hot springs and brief snooze, it was time for Kaiseki style dinner served in our rooms. The hotel staff sets it up and brings in items during your meal. Kaiseki is a specific style of meal with multiple dishes served in small portions. It was a feast! None of us could figure out what all the items that we were eating, but we would say what was tasty, what we would trade for something else, or guess at what we thought something was. It was all very healthy food – primarily vegetables (some broiled at the table, some pickled) and fish. Dennis and I gave our sashimi to Donald, who was in heaven eating all it along with Asahi beer.


There were 3 different types of soups, tempera, pickled veggies, soft tofu with different dipping sauces, pumpkin, chestnut, radish, mushrooms, potato and more. It was all beautifully and delicately presented. That’s part of Kaiseki – if it’s beautifully presented, then it’s a good meal. So we sat at the table (cross legged or straight out in front of you) for over an hour and a half eating, talking and digesting.

Then on to a shiatsu massage, also done in the room on the futon. An older gentleman employed by the hotel came to room for the massage. Chie stayed with me so she could translate his directions (i.e. turn over) and questions (i.e. pressure too hard?). It was not a relaxing massage because it was somewhat vigorous and the lights were on and Chie was talking to the guy. But he did work out some of the tight spots in my upper back.

So now that I’m soaked, stuffed, and shiatsu’d, I think it’s time to hit the futon and go to sleep!